Frequently Asked Questions

Hopefully we've answered any questions that you have below, but if we haven't, let me know and I can add your questions in!  

Bee Boxes

What Bees will use a Nesting Box or Bee Hotel? 

The most likely candidate is a Red or Blue Mason Bee, with the possibility of Leafcutter Bees later on in the season.  See the info sheet these brilliant bees to find out more! 

Where should I install my bee box? 

  1. Red Mason and Leafcutter Bees love the early morning sun.  So it is essential that your nesting box is positioned with the opening facing south/ south-east, so your nesting tubes catch those morning rays. 
  2. You need to avoid your nesting equipment being obstructed by any shade/ foliage as this may discourage bees from using the tubes. 
  3. Secure your nesting box to a wall, fence or post - a height of around 1.5 meters is ideal.
  4. Keeping the opening at a slightly downward-facing angle will assist with draining and keep the nesting tubes inside dry
  5. Siting equipment near fruiting trees or a good supply of pollen rich plants will be highly benefits to visiting bees.  Apple trees are ideal (the Red Mason Bee is sometimes known as the Orchard Bee). 

Which nesting tubes should I use? 

If you want us to overwinter tubes, we only accept cardboard ones.  This allows us to carefully inspect them and ensure that they are parasite free.  Tubes should have an inner and an outer lining – we buy ones from here: https://www.birdfood.co.uk/replacement-mason-bee-tubes.

When sending tubes to us, you only need to send the inner tube – meaning you can reuse the outer tube for years to come.  This saves money, and also has the advantage of ‘seasoning’ the tubes – bees that have used it will leave pheromones on the outer tube, which will encourage more bees to use it next year. 

If you don’t want us to overwinter them, then you can also use bamboo tubes, or drill holes directly into either stones or wood.  Just make sure they are no more than 8mm in diameter (mason bees like a snug fit). 

When should I install my nesting tubes? 

A good rule is to put your tubes outdoors on April 1st.

Nesting tubes should be made available to bees at a time that coincides with their emergence from a cocoon stage. 

The first solitary bee species usually begin to emerge towards the end of March, but every year is slightly difference.  The bulk of Red Mason bee nesting usually occurs from mid-April – early June. 

The exact timing and duration of the Mason bee season can be affected by a myriad of factors, including air temperature, pollen availability, geographical location, microclimate, rainfall etc. 

Nesting

Some of my Nesting Tubes are capped with mud – what should I do? 

When the end of a Nesting Tube has been capped with mud, it is usually an indication that the tube has been filled with larvae (although bees have occasionally been observed to cap empty tubes – nothing in nature is a given!). 

If you notice any capped Nesting Tubes, wait 24 hours to ensure the mud is set before removing it from the nest box.  Remove and replace the whole tube or remove the inner layer and replace with a new tube refill. 

Bring all capped tubes indoors and store in a cool, dry location free from mice and other predators. 

Why should I remove capped tubes from the tube holder? 

A capped nesting tube generally indicates that the inside has been filled with cocoons.  Regular removal of capped tubes from your nesting tube holder will help protect the cocoons inside from bad weather, parasites and predators. 

How do I prevent birds removing nesting tubes from the tube holder? 

There are a couple of options you can try. 

You can use elastic bands to bundle nesting tubes into bunches of 10 or more – this makes them heavier and harder for smaller birds to pull out. 

If that doesn’t work on its own, place some wire mesh around the entrance to the tube holder and balloon it outwards – this will prevent all birds reaching the nesting tubes, but still allow free access for the bees. 

When can I remove empty/ unused Nesting Tubes from my tube holder? 

It is unlikely that bees will continue to use nesting tubes after the end of August.  After this time, bring any empty nesting tubes indoors. Before storing for use nest season, make sure you inspect for parasites and remove any detritus from the tubes. 

What should I do with filled tubes? 

Once tubes have been capped you should leave them for 24 hours to make sure that the mud is set.  You should then store them in a cool, dry place away from predators (a garden shed is fine). 

In September, you can bundle your filled tubes together, and send them to us to look after. 

How do I remove the inner tube? 

We use tubes from CJ Wildlife – they come with a plastic cap on one end.  To remove the inner tube, just pull on the plastic cap and the inner tub should slide out.  For tubes bought from other sources, please check with the manufacturer.

Where should I send filled nesting tubes in the autumn? 

To help us distribute bees back to near where they came from, please either download a cocoon overwintering form from the website and fill it in, or complete the following information on another piece of paper: 

  • Name: 
  • Email Address (so we can keep in touch – we promise not to share it or spam you!)
  • Postcode: 

Please package all your capped tubes together in a jiffy bag or similar and send them to:

The Solitary Bee Nursery

16a Buxton Road

New Mills

High Peak SK22 3JS

Solitary Bees

Frequently Asked Questions on Solitary Bees

What are solitary bees? 

When most people think about bees (as more and more of us are doing these days) they tend to think about either honey or bumble bees whereas actually, they only make up a small percentage of the bees that we have in the UK. 

Honey and Bumblebees are known as social bees – they have a queen and a hive (although they are very different in the way that they do it).  Solitary bees on the other hand, don’t live socially – no queen, and no hive. In the UK we have around 250 species of solitary bees, all of which are under threat due to loss of habitat. 

Are solitary bees good pollinators? 

Absolutely yes. Around one third of the food that we eat is dependent on pollinators. Because of the way that solitary bees collect pollen, they are thought to be 120 – 200 times more efficient pollinators than honeybees! 

Do they sting? 

Generally no – solitary bees have no nest or honey supply to protect, so they don’t sting.  The males often don’t have a sting, and the females will only sting if severely provoked.  This means they are safe to encourage into your garden or allotment. 

How many species are there? 

There are around 250 species of solitary bee, most of which fall within a number of different categories. 

Flower Bees: These are fluffy bodied (they look a bit like bumble bees) and nest in burrows in the ground, or in holes in walls.

Cuckoo Bumblebees: They really do look like bumblebees and invade bumblebee nests, tricking the locals into raising their young. 

Mason Bees: Again, fluffy, but slimmer than bumblebees.  These are the ones you are most likely to find in a bee hotel – naturally they will nest in holes in masonry (hence the name), cracks in rocks, although a few do nest in old snail shells!

Mining Bees: These are the bees you may see diving in and out of the ground on a walk.  They dig their own burrows in sandy or chalky ground. 

Leafcutter Bees: Again, these will use bee hotels, and they are the ones responsible for cutting holes in your garden plants. 

Plasterer Bees: These are lovely, stripy bees, which nest in burrows which they plaster with a protective secretion they produce from their mouths. 

What kind of bees will use nesting tubes?

There are three that most commonly use them – slightly depending on where you are. 

  • The Red Mason Bee (Osmia bicornus)
  • The Blue Mason Bee (Osmia caerulescens)
  • The Leafcutter Bee (Megachile centucularis)

The Red Mason Bee: 

(Image by The Solitary Bee Nursery)

  • Also known as Osmia rufa ‘the Apple Bee’ or the Orchard Bee
  • The males are smaller and slimmer than the females and have thin antennae. Female mason bees are much larger bees with boxy heads and horns on their heads
  • They make their own nests in existing hollow spaces e.g. insect burrows in wood, cavities in old walls and sometimes soil
  • They do not produce honey, and do not sting
  • Each female is able to lay up to 50 eggs each life cycle – although weather, food supply, predation, population size and availability of nest sites all impact on this potential
  • They can fly up to 30 meters from their nesting site to gather pollen
  • Once they have started a nest, they will defend it from other bees
  • They are thought to be between 120 – 200 times more efficient pollinators than the Honeybee

The Blue Mason Bee: 

(Image by: gailhampshire from Cradley, Malvern, U.K)

  • They can make their own nests in existing hollow spaces, e.g. insect burrows in wood, cavities in walls and sometimes soil
  • Usually seen from late May to late July or August
  • Common, but not abundant; widespread across England and Wales
  • They do not produce honey and they do not sting

The Leafcutter Bee

(Image by: Bernhard Plank – SiLencer)

  • We have 6 species of Leafcutters in the UK
  • Usually see in mid- June to mid-August
  • Widespread in the UK, although more common in the south
  • Construct nests from cut pieces of available green leaf
  • They do not produce honey and they do not sting

What plants will attract Solitary Bees to my garden? 

See also our blog by friend and gardener David Tattersall on plants specifically aimed at Red Mason Bees. 

When looking to provide food for solitary bees, you need to think about two things: 

  • How accessible are the flowers?
  • When do they flower? 

Red Mason bees will start to emerge in April, with Leafcutters emerging a little later, and both will nest until around August, so you need a continuous supply of nectar during those months. 

When choosing plants, you also need to think about how accessible they are.  Choose plants that have a simple, often flat structure – avoid ones that are ‘double bloomed’ as bees often can’t access the nectar that they produce. 

Fruit trees such as apples are ideal, as well as pears, plums, cherries – any blossoming plant that has a rich pollen supply.  If you have a wild garden, dandelions and buttercups are also a favourite.

Importantly, growing a wide variety of plans in your garden will help by giving the bees a greater range of food supply and the potential for a longer, more productive life.  Try planting in drifts to make it easy for bees to find them. 

And don’t think you need to have a massive garden.  Flowers grown in pots or containers will work just as well. 

You can find a great list of plants for pollinators from the RHS (Plants for Pollinators advice and downloadable lists / RHS Gardening) but here are some suggestions to get you going.  These are mainly wildflowers, but there are some more exotic blooms in there as well.

Early Spring: (Feb to May)

  • Armeria Spendens - Thrift
  • Birds Foot Trefoil
  • Comfrey
  • Crocus
  • Grape Hyacinth
  • Heather (winter flowering)
  • Hellebore
  • Forget Me Not
  • Lawn Daisy – Bellis Perennis
  • Self-heal – Prunella Vulgaris
  • Snakeshead Fritilliary
  • Snowdrops
  • Tierrella Spring Symphony
  • Winter Aconite (single flowered)

Summer: (June to September and onwards)

  • Anise Hyssop
  • Astrantia Major (Hattie’s Pincushion)
  • Birds Foot Trefoil
  • Black Eyed Susan
  • Borage
  • Cornflower – Bachelors Button
  • Cosmos Bipinnatus
  • Echinacea
  • Field Scabious
  • Greater Knapweed
  • Hemp Agrimony
  • Ladies Bedstraw
  • Wild Marjoram

And don’t forget early flowering bulbs and of course flowering shrubs and fruit trees! 

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